New Edge.

Young models have a tendency to get tightly entwined with a certain airy and innocent appeal, which can get repulsive to people clung to the 80's - 90's models era aesthetic and moral-wise. As I've stated before though, a broad palette of faces is to be found both on the runways and in magazines, and the models line-ups aren't genuinely defined by a trend, nor is the proeminence of a certain type of beauty over another to be pointed out ; immature-looking models can't be claimed to take over the industry. In case someone still needs to be convinced, here are three newcomers all made recognizable thanks to their rough, edgy, deep looks.

Marina Buniaka, represented by FM in London and hailing right from Belarus, is one of the six runners-up for the 2009 Ford Contest. As far as I'm concerned I don't make a big deal out of this competition, for as a whole lot of attention-getter stuff within the industry, it's worth following when it comes to spotting potential-gifted girls but not enough to launch a model's career. Back on the topic - I think edgy would be too simplistic and cliché a word to describe Marina's appeal, an impeccable blend of rebelliousness and forlornness.. Tough to resist that secretive of a gaze, implying it holds a secret and refuses to share it away.

Girl next door Canadian Kate Wallace is signed with Sutherland Models in Toronto, wide-eyed, round-faced yet everything but doll-ish. Her effortless package might put off as well as pull in (I personally can't help but admire how well she sports these clothes).. Albeit it'd be unfair to form a finale opinion out of the minuscule amount of shots of her up on her motheragency's website. Regardless, her evolution might pan out in the most interesting way possible, as one dimensional-looking models are often the most surprising when they start unveiling what they're capable of.

Reny Szabo, Hungarian-born signed with New York Models, is among the girls I'm most keeping my hopes up for. I don't mean to repeat what other people have already said in the most spot-on way possible but it seemed inconceivable not to feature her in this post - twisted feelings indeed. I'll just add, uselessly enough, that I'm willing to see Reny through either Jonathan Waiter's lens or Chadwick Tyler's, and... that's it. Period.

source : fmmodels.com via stefanelle @ tFS ; sutherlandmodels.com ; mariemaud.com

The Winter White.

Karlijn Veling. Don't really know where, how to start, and don't quite want to run the risk of writing nonsense. My inner craze may phaze out in a few days - as unloyal as it sounds, I've got hooked on loads of newcomers and got sick of them almost at once a bajillion times - or maybe not - and it's no wonder why I'd be inclined to pick the maybe not. Karlijn's got it all to hold (my) attention : a sharp gaze, a lithe frame, a cheeky edge, and yet an ability to go soft to top it off. Polyvalency, full of promises, one-to-watch... as many phrases that casually get thrown around, but - for want of better ones -that largely define arresting Dutchie ; not to mention editorial-ready, from the looks of it. When weighing the potential of a (soon-to-be) top-working model, the capability of delivering a variational and powerful print-work no matter who the photographer is is among the first factors to be considered ; Karlijn's editorial-work experience being still tenuous, you'll have to form an opinion basing upon her tests solely. Not necessarily the most accurate way to make up your mind on a newbie if you ask me, but still most persuasive a mean if the model's potential succeeds in piercing through all the adornments (airbrushing, cheap lighting effects and so on) added to the original photographs - and Miss Veling had no trouble doing so. Come to think of it, she ties in with the new generation of icy-looking girls a la Eileen Hydorn - as far away as one can get from oozing vulnerability as Siri Tollerod and her likes - that could get in great demand come Fall / Winter 2011. Stay tuned, I guess.

Karlijn's thread @ tFS

source : d'management Groupe via FraItlay @ tFS

Sympathy for the Devil.

It's not the first time that hauntingly darksome Dafne Cejas has got featured on here, and I've already expressed my hopes about her after-Givenchy career before, so I'll just add that her disastrous S/S 2011 season is a further proof as to exclusives being double-edged swords. Yes, they're exciting in the first place, but absolutely loathsome when the exclusive model doesn't go on grabbing high-end work and slowly gets back into oblivion. Not that it's thoroughly the case for Dafne, given she's notched up a substantial amount of print work, lastly for most conceptual British publication, Dazed and Confused.

To be frank, I'm under the impression that Riccardo's Argentinian muse can't really seem to branch out and grow out of the Givenchy niche she's been stuck in since she first debuted. Every editorials she has under her belt have all the same sinister feeling to them - I assume her androgynous-labelled looks prevent her from being hired by girl-y brands (though she modelled the Zara casual collection this season - not this feminine, but still). I could go on a rant about the lack of opportunities she's been given, but for once I won't, as I'm everything but getting apathetic regarding Dafne's work, and this most recent editorial prowess leaves me wanting more.

As usual when it comes to Anthony Maule's imagery, neither haphazard poses nor in-your-face lighting are to be seen, for everything gravitates around the clothing and the focus musn't get stolen from it (it isn't lost on me that put into words, the whole process sounds lackluster, robotic, etc).

As much as this editorial doesn't transcend any boundaries, it takes clothes display up to a whole new level of brilliance, and in that reminds me of Dress is Art, one of the first spreads I laid eyes on, which truly affected me and reinforced my love for fashion. It's no secret that I love models more than luxury clothing per se, but when it doesn't embody a way to show off and draw people's envy, but reeks of passion and work instead, I can appreciate it as an outlet for creativity and grow to admire it altogether... And I give full credit to Anthony Maule for enabling me to do so by bringing out the beauty of every pieces he photographs. Kudos, yet again.

source : Ford Models blog via ghostfeed @ tFS

Come as you are.

Bright-eyed and bushy-browed Amber Anderson scored one opening slot in London this season, and even though the momentum didn't carry over the following cities, she undoubtedly had me intrigued. Not that she struck me as the next top model - and she'll probably never get nearly close to one - but there is something about her - a child-like straightforwardness, an endearing honesty... in a nutshell : she's a whiff of fresh air. Those who beg for the return of real women on the runways will most certainly be the first to pick on her, but then again, I think she brings a youthful spontaneity that fashion as a whole is in lack of. Besides, she contributes and epitomizes the new models era, eclectic and most interesting ; while pretention-free girls like Amber are to be seen on the catwalks, it comes as no surprise to stumble across otherworldly creatures, androgynous girls, tomboys or cutie pies aswell... Hence my annoyance when I read articles deploring the ubiquitousness of clone models (didn't you know that they're all blond-tall-anorexic-Russian-born?), because it sounds beyond dated and insubstantial. But hey, I guess it's much easier to recycle hackneyed thoughts about fashion models than trying to look deeper into the industry and mold a prejudices-free opinion about it...

Amber's thread @ tFS

source : Oui Management via their Facebook page

The Face.

Most of the models need years until they step their game up ; some of them just burst onto the scene and instantly get coveted. Lynn Amélie Rage, newcomer represented by Hamburg-based agency PMA Models, got booked for Prada last month, cast by Russel Marsh a.k.a the most unpredictable (and overrated) casting director, renowned for getting over-infatuated with a girl to end up throwing her away a couple seasons later. Claiming she's already the next hot thing would equate to contradicting my own previous statements, nevertheless her latest set of snaps goes to show she wasn't picked as a mere showfiller. I must admit that the youthful awkwardness she exudes on some of her test shots turns me off and I had lots of trouble making up my mind about her - seeing her on the catwalks might have been what I needed to be fully sold over her. Despite the questionable styling at Prada, her beauty shone through and left me floored and wondering whether she actually was the sweet Lynn Amélie Rage I had spotted a few weeks back. Endowed with piercing blue eyes which add a certain chill to her exotic and expensive looks, the German-born wonder seems to be set up for success ; add the right placements and a strong developement, and she'll definitely be ready to take the fashion industry by storm.

source : models.com via behansu @ tFS

Modern Supermodel.

I was discussing with an acquaintance the supermodels era and the arbitrary impossibility of using this phrase nowadays ; doesn't make sense to me, as we've been witnessing the evolution of a few outstanding models who've left a deep stamp onto the industry, and who do live up to last decade's supermodels. If anything they aren't as into the mainstream as them - nothing but a bonus point in my opinion - but does it really make them less skilled than Linda Evangelista? Really? I shouldn't be taken aback as it's the fashion industry we're talking about, where publicy makes someone a supermodel. All in all, it all depends on the significance you assign to this concept.

Speaking of supermodels, the first name that crosses my mind is Freja Beha Erichsen (sorry Eva). I know a lot of people would disagree because she's a tomboy, she doesn't put any effort into her outfits, yadda yadda yadda... Regardless, the great Dane's managed to build up her reputation within the fashion world thanks to her work and without any self-denial... unlike a certain Kate Moss, who owes her worldwide popularity to her frasques and sense of style. Anyway - there's no denying Freja has reached a whole new level in her career this year, fronting consequent print-work and working with the most influential / hyped photographers of the moment : Steven Meisel, Terry Richardson, or lastly Hedi Slimane.

I've read plenty of critical comments fretting over his imagery being too repetitive, and one cannot deny his trademark doesn't let room for innovation ; yet, and oddly enough, that's what never fails to appeal to me. No originality involved for the sake of making his photographs remarkable, just a calm rawness and the model's capability of emoting.

I like the idea of Freja's face being hidden under a luster wig, and I'm even more puzzled at the chill, penetrating aura exuded by this set considering the model couldn't even rely on her expressivity to create it. It's all about her demure poise. Not to mention that the overall atmosphere is so intense that the melancholy depicted could unconsciously steal over you and wrap you up in an equal state of nostalgic stillness.

All overstatement apart, I think Freja is among the rare models who could make this straightforwardness work. In spite of the gigantic amount of work she's got over the last months, I inwardly believe we are yet to find out about some unseen facets of hers... Up to her hirers to let her unveil them.

source : scanned by Valentine27 @ tFS

Round-up.

As major as it may be considered, walking for Prada or Balenciaga (most certainly my least favorite show this season casting-wise) - or any other attention-getting show for that matter - doesn't ensure a bright future for a model. In an industry built upon constantly moving-on foundations, each step up on the path towards successful longevity has to get looked at with extra caution and care. I personally reckon models trends no longer exist : the range of faces that's to be seen on the catwalks has reached its peak of width, and nowadays any lucky / determined / well-managed one can get their feet wet on the runway, even though they'll fade away the next season. Indeed, casting directors' favorite girls - minus a few exceptions - keep on changing, that's why I'd rather not get carried away over my favorite newbies turning up at a major show whatsoever. In spite of my prudence, I took notice of a few promising girls among the see of new-ish girls, and couldn't refrain myself from feeling a twinge of excitement when seeing them strutt down Miuccia Prada and her overhyped-likes' runway ; here they are, in no particular order :

First off, the ever haunting Zuzanna Bijoch, exclusive at Miu Miu : a sheer vision. Smooth and evocative stare, sharply-defined bone structure and delightfully laid-back attitude on the runway... Needless to say I instantly warmed up to her. I can only beg the industry not to leave her out and give her enough recognition for her to stick around.

When it comes to exclusives, not mentionning Hanna Samokhina doesn't make much sense. Without having a break-out season, the show-stopping Calvin Klein Dutchie hopefully walked enough great shows to leave a certain impression on casting directors and bookers and get past the exclusive barrier (and I do mean my words). Yet again, I'm reduced to wishing that this so-called privilege will be followed up by substantial work, for I'd feel immensely gutted if Hanna fell back into obscurity as... too many Calvin Klein exclusives.

Also can't pass up the opportunity to launch one of the most distinctive models France has given birth to : Victoire Maçon-Dauxerre. Exuding an elegance sans égale and extremely likeable off-duty, Victoire made her way in both at Céline and Miu Miu, in both cases nothing short of spectacular and hopefully drawing the right people's attention.

As for Balenciaga... I can't purport to be supportive of attention-seeking castings. I always get the feeling the collection per se isn't worthy of interest enough so the designer had nothing to rely on but the quality of his models line-up. That's more or less the impression that Ghesquière's house gave off this season. Regardless the quality of the pieces he put out, I can hardly admire them because the show in its entirety embodies everything I loathe about fashion : the proeminence of hype, buzz, or whatever it's called these days. Ugh. Luckily enough though, there were a few models who definitely deserved their spot in there, such as Freja Beha Erichsen, Julia Nobis, Jana Knauerova... and Aymeline Valade above all. Powerful features along a marvellous set of eyes, and a cool attitude to counterbalance them... She's the most striking model I've seen in a while.

And to top this article off, I could simply pick out a model I've never written about before, but I can't help devoting these last words to the outrightly gorgeous Janice Alida. Little did I know we'd get to see her on the catwalks, and it was the most pleasant surprise I had. Walking in opposite shows aesthetically speaking, she didn't have trouble pulling off every outfits with equal ease, which solidified my infatuation with her. A top model in the making.

source : artandcommerce ; coacdinc ; bellazon ; style.com ; style.it